Boyer Bransden Electronic Ignition

 

Its a pretty basic upgrade for the Commando. You can go with Boyer like I did or Lucas Rita. The only reason I don't use Lucas anymore is it costs too much, has an ugly cover & I had one of the 'Transistor boxes' go bad leaving me stranded.

Boyer Ignition does not come without its problems. Fortunately they can be fixed.

 

Cut off all red terminals which Boyer use. Re-do with solder & heat shrink. Make sure the coil wires are not too tight.

 

On the right hand coil, as you sit on the bike, insulate the - terminal on the coil which is close to the rocker cover. I have had a few problems with 'Tracking' or sparks jumping from the coil to Rocker Cover. Make sure the coils are as far forward as you can get them. I used liquid tape for insulation and it worked well. This is usually only an issue when riding in the rain.

 

When timing the bike use a separate, well charged battery.

 

For Forum posts on Boyer Ignition Click Here and type "boyer" in the search field.

 

Fitting and Timing Instructions-(Circuit Diagram)

 

Remove seat.

 

Disconnect fuel lines and remove tank.

 

Remove Contact Breaker cover.

 

Remove complete Contact Breaker assembly, including the Auto advance spring assembly.

 

Set engine at 31 BTDC on the alternator mark. There are two marks on the 1972/ 3 models, use the mark indicating TDC with the pistons at the top of the stroke.

 

Fit the Boyer magnetic rotor unit using the short bolt supplied. The magnets should be lined up horizontally with the Norton stamp on the timing casing of the engine.

 

Fit the Stator plate with the connector block at the bottom, use the standard studs.

 

The magnet on one side of the rotor should now be in the center of the top timing hole in the Stator plate with it adjusted half way along its adjustment slots. If not move the rotor so this is so without moving the engine from 31 BTDC.

 

Connect the 2 wires in the timing cover to the black connector block. (Black/ White to Silver unmarked terminal and Black/ Yellow to Yellow terminal).

 

The 2 wires in the timing cover can be traced up the frame tube to a pair of bullet connectors. Remove these leaving the connectors on the wires.

 

Remove all the low tension connectors from the ignition coils.

 

Remove the White/ Blue wire from the Ballast Resistor between the 2 coils.

 

Remove the Red wire from its earthing point on the end of the Condenser pack. Reconnect this to the + marked terminal on the left hand ignition coil.

 

Fit Transistor Box to frame tube with plastic strap. (Long wires to right hand side of frame).

 

Plug the Black/ White and Black/ Yellow wires from transistor box to wires which feed down the frame to the timing cover.

 

Connect the Red wire from the transistor box to the first connector to the earth tag on the end of condenser pack and connect the second connector to the + terminal of the left hand ignition with the Red wire already connected to it.

 

Connect the - terminal of the left ignition coil to the + of the right hand coil using the short black connecting wire.

 

Connect the - terminal of the right hand coil to the black wire from the transistor box.

 

Connect the Blue wire (the one removed from the Ballast Resistor) to the White wire from the transistor box.

 

All original wires that have been removed are now not in the circuit and can be safely tucked out of the way.

 

Refit fuel lines and seat.

 

Start engine and time with a stroboscope to 31 BTD C with the engine running at more than 5000 R.P.M. Do this with both plug leads one at a time.

 

If the timing is not obtainable before the end of adjustment the magnetic rotor will have to be slackened off and moved a small amount until the timing can be obtained.

 

Refit timing cover.

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